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Whenever compiling a ranking of London’s top eateries, one might expect renowned high-end establishments. However, nestled near the top among these culinary heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu situated in a distant part of northern London.

An Shocking Recognition

The small Turkish eatery, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the 4th finest restaurant in the metropolis by a respected culinary publication. The recognition has left the family totally shocked.

“I am totally surprised,” says a proprietor, pointing to his parents’ relentless work that resulted in their small shop earning such a prominent spot on a respected 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

This compact space, which was a basic cafe before its change into a buzzing destination, has retained much of its original feel. It fits just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking show, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate place,” notes the owner.

The Star Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s focused on the fare, and this eatery certainly excels. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a moist, juicy consistency.

The meat is then tossed into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in gradually. As the meaty mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is folded neatly inside.

It is often enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a strong punch of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a deeper, nuttier and less sickly profile.

Surpassing the Titans

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place satisfied for under £25, comparable tasting menus at luxury establishments can start at many times that figure.

The Ethos of Heart

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I don’t agree with that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is hospitality, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is echoed by the list’s curator, who stated that if he were in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London train at this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the dangers of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Story of Dedication

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t train at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am very proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to find their footing, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum would be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she had a social life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these duties forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

An Accomplishment for the People

The restaurant’s recognition is bound to echo beyond its own walls. “I believe numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the greater meaning of this gastronomic honour.